The bicycle tour of Turkey

7^th-24^th October 2006

The maps: 8^th-15^th; 16^th-22^nd; 7^th, 23^rd-24^th October.

Tracks & points.

7^th October

Turkey from the airliner window looked like brown mountainous terrain. I saw sparse villages, roads that went up and down between mountains. Rivers were everywhere dry, woods were almost absent, but approaching to the seaside, the landscape changed. Beautiful coniferous woods covered mountains of ancient Licia. Our plane landed and I was slightly excited looking at the foreign landscape.

Our plan was to get to the campsite "Bambus", which is located in the outskirts of Antalya. It was a problem to get there by bicycles, because we had only two hours before sunset, furthermore, we did not know the address exactly. To my great surprise, taxi-drivers at the taxi station knew about the campsite nothing. Therefore, we took a taxi to get to the district Lara where the campsite is approximately located. The driver asked locals about the way and eventually we found what we wanted.

The evening was wonderful. We pitched the tent, and left for a walk, to have supper in a restaurant. Afterwards we always choose the restaurants, which were for locals mainly. They are always full of people and more interesting for us. After supper, we strolled the night streets and looked at the sea. Everything was unusual: odor of flowers, Turkish music in café, nature, and people.

8^th October

Almost all that day we spent in the campground. We assembled our bikes and then went to the beach. It was so nice there after our everyday life in Moscow that Anna looked at me sometimes and I saw the question in her eyes: "Maybe we will go on to stay here?" "NO" - that was the answer without words.

We rode to the supermarket “Migros” in the evening and came back at dark, using a GPS. That trip across the unknown night town was wonderful. Traffic was heavy and chaotic in the center, but cars moved slowly and I felt that motorists respected my right to be on the road. That was one more surprise in Turkey.

The owner of the campground was an amiable man. He helped us to reserve the bus tickets by phone, gave us the map of Antalya, so we could find the bus station next day.

9^th October

We reached the bus station without a problem, filled two bottles with petrol at the gas station by the way. Thus, we were ready to prepare evening tea.

Intercity buses are fantastic in Turkey. They are big and comfortable, steward serves the passengers, offering tea, water and cakes. There is no problem to transport bicycles if the wheels are taken off.

All the way, we looked at the windows, took pictures, and recorded video.

10^th October - 36 km

A tractor passed by our stealthy camp and the driver did not see us. That was fine. I turned on my battery-powered electric shaver. The sound was like from a lawn mower. However, we were ready to ride our bikes and nothing could stop us.

Hurrah!!! GPS + PDA is working I have found out what was wrong!!!

We returned to the crossroad and went to the grocery store to buy water and food. An English speaking local fellow who has a Russian girlfriend showed us our road. Lovely countryside was around. We rode along coastline passing by multiple bays and beaches. The pavement ended soon and it became dangerously to cycle downhill without braking. Thus, our speed slowed down.

Once we saw so picturesque place that it would be unforgivable not to stay there for some time.

We were somewhat stunned at the end of the day. Our life changed totally, was bright and eventful.

Anna did one's utmost but we made only 36 km. This fact was of no importance for me. We had a lot of time ahead, traveled together like many years ago, and enjoyed the unreality of life and our solitude.

…a tent in olive grove, nobody around, lapping nearby, what is better than this?

11^th October - 38 km

It becomes cloudy, wind shakes trees. Maybe autumn came here…

We swam in the sea and that was real summer for us anyway, because we are northern people. We had a strong wish to stay here for one or more days, but awaked instinct of vagabond won and pushed us for the journey. We left that nice place. Life prepared new surprises and tests to us.

The road turned inland and uphill. Anna walked, pushing her bike, I tried to cycle at minimal speed, but this became too difficult even for me, so we walked together and had a possibility to talk.

Reaching the top, we saw bird’s-eye view of the peninsula, which we saw from our camp. The country road was picturesque. Cliffs covered with pine trees alternated with olive groves. Sometimes, we met natural water sources where we took a rest and threw a cold douche upon each other.

We met touring cyclists that day. They were a fellow from Germany with his Turkish girlfriend from Izmir. I love such meetings on the road. His first words after “Hello!” were “Are you so crazy to come here with bikes too?” Oh, it was so nice to hear this on the road from a man who can share your fun.

It is a pity that we met so few unsupported tourers in Turkey. Once more, we met Americans at the bus station in Antalya. They were a physics teacher with a lady-journalist, who toured the country the second month. We were glad to meet these nice people. Probably they are indifferent to luxury as well as we are. Look at their website www.coyotecommons.org/michelle.html for more info.

…Back to our story. We reached the village Oren in the evening and did not expect to find ourselves in so populated locality. So, we kept moving almost until dusk, when eventually found a retired spot on a huge desert beach. Strong wind and storm started. Roar of surf muffled our voices. We pitched the tent and boiled water for tea inside.

I love touring life…

12^th October - 31 km

It was raining all the night, but the morning was pretty clear and warm. Last evening we wondered why so many cows’ footprints are here. Cows come in the morning with their cowboy. He was very glad to meet us. We told in a gesture language. Anna set two fingers on her head and said “moooo…” The cowboy was happy. I added that we are Russians “Russya, Moskova”, it is cold in Russia now “Brrr...”, and Turkey is a beautiful country “Turkey guzel”. This was all I could say in Turkish besides "selam aleykum" (not in Turkish too). Our guest gave us a pomegranate. I had never eaten so sweet pomegranate before. It is a pity that I had not any souvenir for him. It is necessary to have some postcards or something for locals. I will correct this fault next time.

As a tradition, our morning cycling was uphill, because the road turned inland again. Then there was the alternation of long walking up and swift cycling down among gorgeous mountains and picturesque villages, in which we filled up our supply.

The region around the village Karaova suffered from fire. Charred trees covered the mountains. The landscape was unreal. Many crews of woodcutters worked around. They gathered burnt trunks and were almost black because of soot.

We made a detour to get to know if the road along the coastline exists. However, the road led us to a mountain village.

We saw the sea and a long train of mountain ridges across our direction without any way ahead. There was one more turn to the sea direction from the road to Karaova. Therefore, possibly the road along the coastline exists somewhere. We had no possibility to find out this because of lack of time. Maybe it makes sense to cycle there next time. Thus, we rode to Bodrum on well-known country road.

It was time to camp, but there were only steep slopes with burned woods around and no one suitable spot to pitch the tent. Finally, I saw a forest in the valley below where we found a retired spot.

Night fell and mullah began to sing his prayer in a village…

13^th October - 27 km

Mullah sang his prayer again. That meant sunrise would be soon…

We are cycling… and walking, altitude is becoming higher. I am training to ride uphill at the minimal speed. Anna even does not try to do this. She is slightly tired. Nevertheless, the weather is fine and wonderful nature gives us energy.

We were almost near to Bodrum. It was reasonably to arrive in the town in the morning, because we planed to look for accommodation and to make an excursion then. Furthermore, we wanted to have more time to rest. Therefore, we decided to camp early. That was done.

It was so pleasant to relax there. I could not stop to wonder that there were no mosquitoes, at all. This is incredible. We could stay in the woods in summer without any protection. This is impossible in Russia, except Caucasus Mountains perhaps.

After evening tea, we sat beside our tent until late and looked at the stars of the southern sky. Unforgettable evening…

14^th - 15^th October - 30 km

Two days in Bodrum.

Accommodation was not a problem, because the season came to an end close. Probably we were the single guests in the hotel.

It was clear already, that we must to change our previous plans and to shorten the route. Yes, it was impossible to realize our mileage plan. I had never rode in mountains before, that is why I overestimated our abilities. Besides that, going by bus to the start point in Gokova, I saw heavy traffic and the road reconstruction on the part of our planned route. There were no shoulders on the road section, which was being repaired. One more reason was that the route through ancient Licia from Fethie to Antalya was more interesting. Therefore, we decided to go to Fethie by bus.

What can I say about Bodrum? It is a typical resort. Luxury is everywhere, crowds of foreigners, empty restaurants with heavy press to come:

- “Where are you from? Where are you from?‘

- “From Sweden…”

- “…???”

I do not like this, but anyway we had good rest, walked along the sea front, and rode to the suburb beach.

16^th October - 13 km.

We started to cycle from Fethie to Oludeniz late at 16.35. Our plan was to look at the beginning of "Lician way", on which Alexander Great went with his army. First 6 km was moving uphill until the altitude 350 m. That was very hard, besides that we had little time before sunset. Then there was a plain section and swift movement downhill until the sea level. There were hotels everywhere, but we wanted to find a campground at least. One was found in the outskirts of the settlement.

The fine picture of Fethie below was taken from the top.

17^th October - 33 km

Yes, we are not ancient Macedonians. When we saw the beginning of the "Lician way", which crossed a long train of mountain ridges, it got clear how it would be difficult to cycle there. Maybe we will go on that way, but not this time.

…And it started raining. The sky was gray and low. The world changed suddenly. Everything looked as if summer was over. Foreigners vanished from the streets. Locals looked as though they were chilly.

After return to Fethie, we went to the restaurant, which was at the bus station, and had excellent dinner in Turkish style. Happy and joyful we rode the wet streets, brooks flew everywhere and dried up channel of the river was filled up.

The terrible thunderstorm lasted all the night. It was even difficult to sleep because of non-stop lightings and rumble.

18^th October - 0 km

It is pouring. We have been in the tent all this day. There is no point in cycling today …

19^th October - 48 km

Awaking in the morning, I noted strange quiet. Oh, my God, it is not raining anymore!!!

The morning was calm and beautiful. The world was born again. We took fine pictures about it.

The picturesque road took us through the valley to the ruins of the Lician settlement Xanthos. We walked among ancient stones, remembered history and talked about ancient civilizations, their dawn, and collapse, about people, who passed away centuries ago, but left us their art. I set on a bench in the amphitheatre, looked at the stage, and thought that I am 2500 years late for the play…

20^th October - 47 km

We spent the night in a fine coniferous forest near to Xanthos. There were some small excavations near to our tent. I found them in the morning and told Anna about it. Thus, we found some ceramic details. I do not know if they are ancient, but this is a good remembrance anyway.

The road was not very difficult that day or maybe we were fit already.

Funny event happened on the road. Once we rested after a heavy rise, when a lorry, passing by us, pulled up suddenly without any reason and then continued moving. Two huge pomegranates jumped out of the lorry to us. The fruits were ripe and delicious. We thought with a smile that Heaven bless our journey and us.

Pupils of a village school saw us when we walked uphill. They came and shouted "Hello". We shook hands. Then I suggested Anna to photograph them. Children and we were happy after that and a boy even gave me a Turkish coin as a keepsake. I will keep one, I promise.

The road along coastline was picturesque. Anna told that she pictured our way like this in Moscow.

As it was planned, we reached the town Kas. I knew that there is a good campsite near to the center of the town. Reality was even better. The campsite was excellent. We choose a tiny summerhouse, which was located in the olive grove near to the beach.

21^st October - 58 km

The beginning was 14 km of walking and sometimes cycling uphill, up to the altitude 568 meters. Probably that was the most difficult part of our route for last days. Then there was cycling up and down within 100 m interval of height all the day.

Finally, we saw the sea and a huge tomato plantation in the valley below. There was the town or village Demre according to the road sign. However, the town Kale, which should be there, was absent. I could not explain this fact.

We did not want to camp among those greenhouses with tomatoes inside, besides that we were a little tired. Therefore, we lodged in a hotel.

22^nd October - 62 km

We had to cycle 150 km for next two days, therefore we took French leave early. The owner of the hotel slept like a log in the hall. We did not awake him.

The weather was fine and we hoped that cycling would be easy too. We rode along coastline until the town Fethie, which is a beautiful resort with a huge 9 km beach along the road. Then the road turned into the mountains.

It was even better that we did not realize our mileage plan that day, because we spent one more nice summer night in the mountains, in our tent at the altitude 565 meters in a calm  coniferous forest.

23^rd October - 88 km

Nice mountain road with low traffic continued until the town Kemer. We rode and did not stop to admire the scenery. It was a pity that the vacation came to an end close. So many historical sites we did not see by the way that day. No, 88 km per day is to mach, it is not our touring style, but we wanted to complete the route and did it.

Thanks to Anna, I appreciated her tenacity.

…Campground "Bambus" in Antalya. We were here only 16 days ago, but it seems much more time has gone by. Everything is the same but we are changed. This happens every time, when we finish our route.

Epilogue

Dull and rainy late October in Moscow…

The travelogue is finished. I insert the music CD in a player and the melody from the tour bursts into my room...

Life continues…